Pressure Washing

The Art of PressureWashing

There’s no better way to prepare a house for painting, but be careful you’re not doing more harm than good
BY JON TOBEY

If you read the label on a few different cans of paint, you’ll notice some similarities. One way or another, the instructions will tell you to scrape all loose paint, to repair all damaged areas, and to clean the surface thoroughly. To do the best possible job, I have made pressure washing a regular step for all my finishes.
However, there is an art to pressure washing a house, whether you are doing it to prep for painting or just to clean the siding. It’s like the story of The Three Little Pigs: Too much, and you could blow your house down; too little, and you could huff and puff all day long to no effect.
A pressure washer is not a paint remover
Pressure washers are for washing. They are not for removing paint. If you manage to use a pressure washer as a paint remover, you’re probably washing hard enough to damage the siding, and possibly forcing water inside the walls. The reason to wash the house is to remove dirt, algae, mildew, and oxidation that can cause paint failure. Loose and flaking paint should be scraped and sanded, and damaged siding and trim should be repaired before the house is washed.
Although I tend to wash harder than other contractors, I tailor my technique to each house. On an 80-year-old house, I use less pressure than on a 3-year-old repaint, and I avoid areas that may be prone to leaking. To be sure that water is not getting into walls, I always ask permission to go inside the house, where I check for leakage around doors and windows.
Although a pressure washer is not a paint remover, washing can loosen paint. So when I’m done washing the house, I check for newly loosened or flaking paint before I prime.
Bleach cures the mildew problem
One of the biggest problems with existing paint jobs is mildew. Mildew discolours the paint, causes adhesion problems with new paint, and even can damage the siding. To combat this problem, I apply a 3-to-1 water-to-bleach solution before I pressure wash. I mix the solution in a garden sprayer and apply it to the entire house. When washing houses, I prefer the garden sprayer to the chemical injector on the pressure washer because the sprayer is easy to move around the house and up and down a ladder.
Be careful with the bleach. I’ve never had a problem, but I have heard of people experiencing adverse skin reactions to the mist. If your skin is sensitive, wear long sleeves, pants, a respirator, and rubber gloves.
Although the sprayer and pressure washer both are accurate applicators, be mindful of overspray and run-off. I generally don’t like to use chemicals on surfaces that are not going to be repainted, but if the house has a deck, I usually wash it anyway. Otherwise, I’m very careful not to let the bleach solution drip on decks or wood-shake roofs because the bleach can leave noticeable clean spots.
Cleaning-solution formula
1 part bleach mixed with 3 parts water
In my experience, most plants seem immune to the bleach solution, but to be safe, I cover and uncover them as I go. You also can wet the plants before applying bleach to the house so that any solution that does drip on them is diluted further, and then rinse them again when you are finished with the area.
A pressure washer scrubs and rinses
Applying the chemicals and washing the house always are two separate steps, so after I have made a complete lap around the house applying the bleach solution with a garden sprayer, I fire up the pressure washer and start over.
Most often I use a 15° tip to scrub and rinse the house, removing dead mildew spores and any accumulated dirt and rinsing the chemical residue from the siding. A larger angled nozzle doesn’t have enough scrubbing power, and a lower angled nozzle can damage the siding and trim. I wash the entire house with the nozzle 12 in. to 18 in. from the surface. This distance produces a fan about the width of a clapboard. I make sure to rinse the house thoroughly because any chemical residue left behind may affect the new paint’s adhesion to the surface.
If the house is new or if I’m stripping the surface, I skip the bleaching, but I still pressure wash the house to remove any construction dirt or dust before I paint.
I never begin or end with the pressure washer pointing at the house because the force of the water can throw off my balance and damage the surface. Instead, I start with the wand pointing away from the house.
Then I bring it toward the house, keeping it perpendicular to the siding until I am done with the area. At the end of my reach, I finish with the stream again shooting away from the house. I pressure wash from the top down, working from a clean surface into a dirty one, and always keep the gun perpendicular to the house rather than swinging it in an arc.
You can buy extension poles for washing the higher areas of siding, but I find them exhausting to use and tough on my back. You also never want to shoot water up at the house because doing so can force water underneath the siding. Instead, I wash the house from a ladder so that I can see what I’m doing. Most machines come with a wand that has a pistol-grip handle, which means I can wash one-handed from a ladder. It takes a little practice to get comfortable, but once you are used to working from a ladder, it is a real time-saver. I avoid working from wood-shake or metal roofs because my life depends on it. In Seattle, most of the roofs are made of wood shakes, and getting them wet activates a fine layer of algae that can be treacherous.
JUST ENOUGH SCRUBBING POWER
Four different tips provide an angle for every job.
Wheels and a frame that creates a handle make it easy to move the machine as you work around the house.
Quick-release connectors make it easy to disconnect the hose and gun and add hose extensions.
An in-line chemical injector allows you to use the machine to apply cleaning products.
To clean a house well, you need a machine that can generate around 2500 psi. Anything less just won’t cut it, and stronger machines are overkill. 
Pistol-grip handle lets you work comfortably one-handed.
15o tip
15° fan angle
TIPS CONTROL THE FAN ANGLE AND THE WASHING STRENGTH
Most pressure washers come with a set of tips that produce various spray angles. As you would expect, the different angles control the strength of the water stream.
The 0o tip focuses an extremely powerful jet of water at a narrow area. To avoid damaging the siding, I recommend losing this tip. I use the 15o tip for most of my work. This tip works well 4 in. to 4 ft. from the surface. For a light wash, such as to remove sanding dust, the 25o tip works well. I honestly don’t find a 40o tip to be much of an improvement over a regular garden hose.
The largest tip is usually a specialty tip to use with the chemical injector. A chemical injector is an in-line T that works like those bottles you attach to a hose to spray gardening chemicals. The end of the T goes into a cleaning solution. The high- pressure water coming into the T siphons the chemicals into the machine and mixes themwith the water.
0o tip                             Red
25o tip                           Green
40o tip                           White
Chemical applicator      Black

POSITION IS EVERYTHING 
As you make your way around the house, work from the top down, washing from clean areas to unwashed areas. Instead of shooting water up at the house, work from a ladder and wash downward to avoid forcing water under the siding.
Start with the gun pointing away from the house. Swing the stream into the siding and wash by moving the wand perpendicular to the house.
12 in. to 18 in.
A 15° tip 12 in. to 18 in. from the siding creates a fan equal to the width of one lap of siding.
Drying takes time
The only drawback to pressure washing as part of preparing a house to be painted is that the house then needs time to dry. While the average two-story house takes me about four hours to bleach and wash, it may take several days of warm weather to dry, possibly up to a week if the surface has a lot of bare wood. But a surface that is in good condition may be dry enough to caulk in 24 hours and be ready for paint the next day.
Without a moisture meter, there is no fool-proof way to know when the siding is dry. You have to make an educated guess. Bare wood is darker when wet, so one thing to note is the colour of the dry siding before it is washed; then you will be able to gauge its moisture content by watching the wood lighten as it dries. You also can feel if the wood still has water in it. On a warm day in particular, you can feel the coolness of the water evaporating from the siding. If you don’t feel any temperature change as you move your hand along the siding, the house is ready to go.
Just cleaning?
A pressure washer can be used to clean the exterior of a house even if it is not going to be painted, but the technique is different. On a painted or stained exterior, you need to be careful. I mentioned earlier that I don’t like to use chemicals on a house that I am not going to repaint. This is because the chemicals can discolour and, more important, degrade the existing paint by removing any sheen it has.
For the same reason, I don’t like to use excessive pressure against a house that I’m not going to repaint. If a house simply is dirty or dusty and needs a good rinsing, I use a 25o nozzle, stand back, and let the water do the work. If a house has algae, mildew, or oxidation on it that needs to be removed, and chemicals are the only choice, the house probably should be repainted.
CONNECTION 
Pressure washers are a great way to clean a surface before painting, but they are not good paint removers because the power required to strip paint can damage the house. 
A garden sprayer makes a great chemical applicator. Prior to washing, a bleach-and-water solution is mixed in a garden sprayer and applied to the entire house to remove stains and to kill mildew. A garden sprayer is a lightweight alternative to the in-line chemical injector on the pressure washer.
Pressure-washer tip colours and spray angles
- 0o tip                            Red
- 15o tip                          Yellow
- 25o tip                          Green
- 40o tip                          White
- Chemical or soap tip     Black

Home Renovation

Home Renovation - 5 Reasons Why We Do It

For most individuals, owning their dream home is one of the greatest gifts in life. These homes provide not only shelter for their loved ones, but also represent a culmination of many years of sacrifice and hard work. Regrettably, even a dream home must cope with time and after awhile will not look appealing due to wear and tear. Whenever this takes place, it is time to think about home remodeling.

The following are five main reasons why people choose to remodel:

Preservation: Regardless of how good a house is constructed, it will be impacted by time and natural elements. During the first couple of years this isn't a real problem, but as the years pass the house could gradually display signs of degradation which is certainly not a pretty sight for any owner. This is the reason why smart homeowners know very well to incorporate plans for Raleigh home renovation in their spending budgets every couple of years. Routine inspection and improvements must be carried out by any homeowner who would like to preserve the structure that they worked extremely hard to construct.

Value: Individuals who are proud of owning their dream house will not even consider selling. However, life is extremely unpredictable and just about anything could happen which might force them to sell. Whenever this occurs, the homeowner would want the highest price for their valuable possession. But this is not always achievable. Actually, many properties which get sold undergo some form of remodeling before purchasers ultimately make the decision to take them from the market.

To break monotony: In most cases, it is really difficult to select a theme or design for a house that you might need for the remainder of your lifetime. Green might be your beloved color, but this might change in the next fifty years. This is the reason why most designers and building experts everywhere generally encourage home remodeling every now and then. This is not suggesting that the house should change in its entirety, but just several restorations and redesigns to enhance the house.

Family: Children grow up easily nowadays and will want a family of their own and you will get grand kids. The things which worked well for junior might not be so pleasing to them down the road. In addition, you also need to think about the safety of your loved ones. Do you have safe floors in the bathroom for children? Would you need to install railings to accommodate visiting parents? All of these problems could be avoided if you carry out home remodeling projects.

Repairs: Several damages inside the house will not be visible on the outside, so the best way to identify problem areas is to do some remodeling. Even though everything might be working correctly, this is not an indication that there is not a problem.

In the end, when you value your hard work and sacrifice you should never neglect to care for your home. Make an effort to do a little work every couple of years as a part of regular home renovation routine.

http://www.thetradesnetwork.com/home

Is Your Old Wiring Safe?

Is Your Old Wiring
Safe?
Inspect the electrical panel and exposed wiring to identify safety risks and upgrade options
BY CLIFFORD A. POPEJOY

Some materials used in old houses are better than their modern counterparts, like three-coat plaster versus drywall. When it comes to electrical wiring, though, older does not mean better. Electrical materials and safety devices have improved considerably over the past century. Is old wiring safe? It may be. Or it may present a shock, electrocution, or fire hazard due to deterioration from age, poorly executed modifications, or lack of capacity to meet modern power demands. Older wiring that’s in good shape, however, can continue to serve, and selective upgrades can be used to meet today’s needs.
A visual inspection of the panel and exposed wiring is the first step in evaluating an electrical system. Although I can’t possibly describe everything that could go wrong with old wiring and how to fix it, I can describe some of the signs of an electrical system that needs repair or replacement.
Get to know your old wiring
When electrical wiring first was installed in new homes, the wires were run on a series of porcelain knobs and tubes. In a knob-and-tube system, the splices were soldered and wrapped in electrical tape. Junction boxes, if there were any, were small.


125 YEARS OF ELECTRICITY IN HOMES
1879
Thomas Edison
invents the first practical lightbulb.
1896
An increasing number of fires caused by poor electrical installations leads to the development of the National Electrical Code (NEC).
1910's
Electric light begins to replace gaslight and kerosene lamps. Fuse boxes and knob-and-tube wiring are state-of-the- art. Houses that have electricity are supplied with 30 amps at 120v, and that’s plenty of power.


Armored cable, or BX, also was used in early electrical systems. Originally designed to protect the wires inside, the armor also acted as the grounding conductor in later versions of the cable.
Loomex, a predecessor of the nonmetallic (NM) sheathed cable used today, became available in the late 1920s. Nonmetallic cable first had only two wires with a tar-soaked cotton jacket. Later, a grounding wire and plastic sheath- ing were added. The insulation on the wires was made more heat resistant in 1984. This cable, used widely today, is labeled NM-B.
When current travels through a wire, the friction creates heat that can damage the wire’s insulation. Consequently, all wiring is protected by fuses or circuit breakers. In early electrical systems—5-, 20-, 25-, and 30-amp—Edison fuses provided this protection.
The second generation of over-current protection is the circuit breaker. A circuit breaker is a switch that senses when there’s too much current and opens, interrupting the circuit. The advantage of breakers is that they can be reset after the problem has been fixed. If a fuse melts, it has to be replaced. When I inspect old wiring, I begin at the fuse box or breaker panel.
First, inspect the panel
As greater demands were made on old electrical systems, fuses would melt due to overloads. People often installed an oversize fuse, or in- stalled a coin or metal slug to bypass the fuse and keep it from melt- ing. When I evaluate a fuse box, I take out each fuse and look for a coin or slug. If I find one, I know the wiring on that circuit probably is damaged and needs to be evaluated further before it can be deemed safe.
Likewise, if I find a bunch of 30-amp fuses in a box, there is a good chance the circuits are overfused. Thirty-amp or larger circuits are used for 240v appliances or for subpanel feeders, so there should be only a pair of 30-amp or larger fuses for each of these circuits. I also check the gauge of the wires on each circuit to determine if the fuse size is appropriate. If the homeowner intends to keep the fuse box as the main panel or as a subpanel, I install type-S inserts before I replace the fuses. The inserts make it impossible to install oversize fuses.
RED FLAGS IN THE FUSE BOX AND BREAKER PANEL
1 Coins or slugs behind the fuses. In this case, a penny is not a sign of good luck, but rather a sign that the wiring may have been damaged by the bypassed overcurrent protection.
2 Hacked panel covers. Circuit breakers are designed to work only in specific panels. To save money, mismatched and over- size breakers may have been installed, and the panel cover modified to fit.
3 Rust. On screws, wire, armored cable, or the box itself, rust is a sign of deterioration. Rust can create poor connections and potential safety hazards.
4 Melted wire. Exposed copper wire is dangerous because it can cause arcing, shock, and electrocution. Melted insulation is a sign of overheating.
Homeowners with newer electrical panels sometimes install over-size circuit breakers on overloaded circuits. Using the coffeemaker and toaster at the same time no longer trips the breaker, but it’s likely that the wiring has been overheated and damaged as well.
I’ve also found electrical panels missing covers. This makes resetting a breaker unsafe. And I’ve seen the cover notched to accommodate a breaker not designed for the panel. This is dangerous because breakers and panels work together as a system, and only breakers listed for use in a specific panel are acceptable. If the cover is missing or has been hacked up, I buy a new one or have a new one made, replace the mismatched breaker, and carefully inspect the wiring for that circuit.
Inside all electrical boxes, I look for rusted metal, melted plastic, exposed copper on the hot and neutral wires, and loose connections.
Look for failing wires


1920's
By the end of the decade, two-thirds of American homes have electricity.
1930's
Electrical appliances and tools are common. Armored cable (BX) comes into common use, but knob-and-tube wiring still is widely used. Service grows to 60 amps, 240v, and breakers start to replace fuses.
1940's
Postwar building boom accelerates changes. Loomex, a non- metallic (NM) sheathed cable, is used more widely. Knob-and-tube is phased out because installation is too labor-intensive.


After I inspect the fuse box or breaker panel, I look at all the accessible wiring, usually in the attic and basement. I check for signs of deterioration or of improper modification. If I find bare wire where the insulation has fallen off, or brittle insulation that will fall off soon, I know there’s a risk of shock, electrocution, and fire.
I inspect modifications to knob-and-tube wiring. Original splices should have a neat layer of friction tape and should be sup- ported by knobs on both sides. Non original splices should be made in electrical boxes. Open splices can fail and arc. The National Electrical Code (NEC) does not allow knob-and-tube wiring to be buried in insulation, although some jurisdictions do, as long as it has been inspected by an electrician and there is a sign warning that the wiring is present.
I begin my evaluation of armored cable at places where it’s exposed to moisture because rust is the most common cause of deterioration. I also make sure the fittings that connect the cable to electrical boxes are not rusted or loose. Rust and bad connections impair the grounding path. If I spot rusted cable, I test the quality of the grounding path with a spe- cial tester.
With NM cable, I first check to see if the sheathing is deteriorating or has been chewed by rodents. Then I look in a few boxes to see how
the grounding conductor is terminated. During the transition to grounded circuits, some electricians clipped off the ground wire or wrapped it back onto the sheath. If grounding outlets are installed in a system without a grounding wire, I replace the outlet with a non grounded or GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) receptacle.
Some NM cable installed in the 1960s had aluminum conductors. If I find branch circuits with aluminum wiring, I inspect all connections. Because aluminum expands and con- tracts, it can work itself loose. I make sure that all the switches and outlets are rated for aluminum wiring. I also look inside junction boxes and behind out- lets and switches. Looking in these areas, I can tell if past electrical work was done properly.
Rewire or upgrade?
After I inspect an electrical system, I have to decide whether to recommend rewiring the house or just doing selective upgrades. If much of the cable sheathing or conductor insulation is in bad shape, if there are no fixture boxes, or if testing shows poor connections, I recommend a rewire. If only one or two areas have deteriorating insulation and it looks as if the original installation and any modifications were well done, and the results of voltage-drop testing are acceptable, then selective replacement or upgrading is an option.
Folks often worry about non grounded circuits. If wiring is in good shape and grounded outlets aren’t needed—for three-prong plugs or surge protectors—these circuits are fine.
Older wiring and the small outlet boxes that often were used with it can be difficult to rework. If you need or want to add GFCI outlets, for example, you may find it difficult to install the GFCI in a small box without damaging the old wires. In this case, I install a junction box at a point where the original wiring is in good shape, and splice and run new cable to the outlet. If the outlet box is still too small, I remove the old electrical box and install an old-work box.
If a house’s wiring is in good condition but is overloaded, adding a few new circuits is the best solution. Installing new circuits to serve the kitchen-counter and bathroom outlets, computers, dishwashers, and garbage disposals takes a significant load off existing circuits and costs much less than rewiring the house.


THREE MYTHS ABOUT OLD WIRING
The design, materials, and installation techniques of older wiring are very different from today’s systems. As a result, there are many misconceptions about older wiring. Here are three of the most common myths:
Myth #1 Knob-and-tube wiring must be replaced
When the opportunity presents itself—during a remodelling project, for instance—I usually recommend replacing old wiring. Some insurance companies won’t issue new policies or will charge higher premiums for houses with knob-and-tube wiring. However, if it is inspected, proves to be in good condition, and meets your needs, there is no reason to rewire your house.
Myth #2 Old non grounding circuits are unsafe
Most new appliances, lamps, and tools have two-prong plugs that don’t need a grounded outlet. These two-prong plugs are double-insulated, reducing the chance of shock or electrocution and the need for a grounded circuit. What is unsafe is using an adapter to make a three-prong plug work in a non grounded outlet. If you need to plug in a surge protector or other grounded device, run a new circuit that has an equipment-grounding conductor.
Myth #3 GFCIs won’t work with old wiring
A GFCI receptacle will work fine in an old electrical system even if the circuits don’t have a grounding conductor. The GFCI self-test button will work, too. Because there’s no grounding conductor, though, a plug-in continuity tester won’t trip the breaker.


1950's
Grounding conductor is included in some cable. Grounding receptacles (three-hole outlets) appear, but it’ll be 20 years before their use is universal.
1960's
Plastic insulation is used on conductors in loomex. Fuses still are widely used for 15-amp and 20-amp branch-circuit overcurrent protection.
1970's
NM cable with plastic sheath and full-size grounding wire is introduced. GFCI protection is required for residential bathroom and garage receptacles. Circuit breakers become common.


If I’m adding new circuits, I have to decide if the fuse box or breaker panel has enough capacity and breaker spaces to handle new circuits. If the service is an original 120v, 30- or 60-amp fuse box or breaker panel, or if I need to add branch circuits to a fuse box, I recommend upgrading to a modern panel and 200-amp service. It is also time to upgrade the service when the load calculations show a demand larger than the existing service or when no space is available for new circuits. Finally, if the panel is rusted or if the hot buses are badly pitted, it’s time to upgrade. If all you need is one or two additional 20-amp circuits, and the panel has capacity and breaker space, there’s no reason to replace a panel just because it is old.
Looking at the condition of wires, and their supports and connections, is a big part of inspecting an old electrical system. If you inspect the wiring in your house and still have concerns, call an electrician who has expertise in old wiring and has the special equipment to test the safety and reliability of the circuits and overcurrent protection.


1980's
NM-B (high-temperature insulation) cable first appears. GFCI protection is required for kitchen-counter receptacles within 6 ft. of a sink.
1990's
GFCI protection is required for all kitchen-counter receptacles.
2000's
AFCI protection is required for all bedroom circuits.


SIGNS OF FAULTY WIRING AND BAD UPGRADES
1 Poor additions. Other than knob- and-tube, wires should be in a cable or conduit. Loose current-carrying wires are vulnerable to damage.
2 Missing electrical box. Switches, outlets, and splices should be installed with electrical boxes.
3 Chewed cable. Rodents can be a problem with nonmetallic cable. Chewed cable should be repaired or replaced.
4 Bad connections. During an inspection, all connections should be checked. Because the armor on this BX cable acts as the grounding conductor, a bad connection means poor or no ground.
5 Deteriorating sheathing. The insulation on old wiring can be brittle. Brittle insulation crumbles, exposing wires and creating a hazard. Small areas of deteriorating cable can be fixed; lots of deteriorating cable should be replaced.

Job Closeout

Job Closeout

Finishing on schedule and within budget demands careful planning at the start by Stephen Mead

Like a bad dream, a prybar tumbled from the mantel in slow motion, shattering the Italian marble hearth below. This is exactly how a good job goes bad.

Blame it on poor communication. My company had been doing a large interior wood-working project. We were almost finished and anxiously looked forward to our next job, when the owner asked us to build a fireplace mantel. After sketching a few ideas on the wood subfloor, we agreed on a design and a price.

A week later, just as the second coat of varnish had begun to harden, the owner returned to inspect the project. With a look of horror on her face she told me that it was much too large. I started to motion toward our original sketch, but realized that it had vanished beneath the marble hearth that had been set the day before. We argued, but in the interest of a peaceful settlement, I agreed to change the size of the mantel. In my haste to make the change I guess I was careless: the prybar fell, and the nightmare began.

The tile setter informed me that it would take six weeks to get a new marble hearth. Weeks stretched out into months, however, and three months later a frustrated contractor— myself—received final payment less drywall, paint and marble repairs from an equally frustrated owner. There's an old saying among builders that all jobs reach 90% completion and then stay there forever. This job seemed to prove it. Why is it so hard to finish?

Starting out right—As builders, we focus most of our attention on getting and managing the work. As a result, we give too little thought to the final stages of the job. This lack of planning costs us dearly. We spend countless hours either correcting work that should have been done right the first time, or modifying designs that weren't quite right, or waiting months for light fixtures that we thought we'd get right away. This excruciating process of trying to finish is called "job closeout."

The firm that I work for recently studied job closeout. We discovered that we spend 20% of a typical project's overhead on the final 5% of the work. A marketing survey also showed us that our inability to finish jobs promptly affected our clients' perceptions of us. They likened a contractor who spends too much time onthejobtoachildwhowon'tleavehome.In other words, our poor performance at job close-out was costing us money and references. We discussed the problem with clients, subcon- tractors, accountants, architects, engineers—even our spouses—and concluded that the real trick to finishing on time is getting started properly. That means scheduling intelligently and taking time to educate clients and sub-contractors about the job schedule and the building process. It also means actively managing quality at all stages and controlling the final punch list (a list of items to be corrected or completed before the job is considered complete). The big payoff comes at the end because the more time you spend up front, the easier it is to finish.

There's an old saying among builders that all

jobs reach 90% completion and then stay there forever.

Setting and managing schedules—It is said that time expands to meet a task. If you're given four weeks to complete a project requiring two weeks of work, you'll generally finish in four weeks. Most of us put things off until we're forced to meet a deadline, and that's why scheduling is so important.

Scheduling involves estimating the time needed for various tasks and then setting realistic deadlines. On large commercial projects, several employees do nothing but keep track of the job schedule. But good scheduling is as important for the small builder as for the large one, because the efficient use of time can mean the difference between profit and loss. We make scheduling part of our standard job start-up checklist.

The start-up checklist. This simple form can be adapted to fit a particular job or builder. Organizing routine tasks leaves the builder free to focus on the more complicated aspects of a project.

JOB START-UP CHECKLIST                      

ITEM DATE


1. Set up project directory 

2. Set up files 

3. Project schedule

4. Job buyout 

5. Write subcontracts/purchase order 

6. Accounting budget 

7. Order long lead items 

8. Job meeting

9. Temporary utilities/telephone

10. Trash hauling/dumpster 

11. Job sign 

12. Change order system

13. Requisitions

Making a schedule forces you to build the job mentally and to solve problems early. To schedule successfully, you need to understand the project from start to finish. Separate each task, determine the time involved, and try to develop an understanding of how each part of the job relates to the others. Ask your subcontractors how long their work will take. If sub-contractors aren't available, you can use published estimating guides to estimate production rates. 

A good schedule lets everyone anticipate the future. We use a bar-chart schedule. The bar chart helps you decide when to order materials, and how to most effectively schedule manpower. It also makes potential scheduling conflicts easy to spot. 

To be effective, a schedule should be optimistic, yet realistic. Build extra time into your schedule for bad weather, delivery delays and inspection problems. Professional estimators call this "float," and it gives you flexibility in getting tasks completed. After estimating the total length of the job, subtract two weeks from it. Everyone will finish early, and you'll have two weeks to handle inspections, push stragglers and clean up.

After setting the final schedule, manage it aggressively. Make sure all deadlines are met. When sub-contractors fall behind, ask them to add more workers, or to work weekends. As a last resort you may have to bring in other sub-contractors to help complete the work (you may want to include a clause in your original contract that lets you charge the original sub for any extra expenses). The idea is to manage time so that it doesn't expand.

Educating the players—We've found that most jobs go much more smoothly  if our clients understand the construction process, so we hold a preconstruction meeting with clients and architect. Some clients know just enough to make them dangerous. For example, even though I've hung hundreds of doors, I had one client tell me I was doing it wrong—they had seen a brother-in-law do it differently. A pre-construction meeting lets you determine how much your clients know about the job and about construction. It also allows you to educate them about the problems you're likely to encounter. But keep in mind that most people don't speak the language of construction. For instance, most people won't know what you mean by "coping" a piece of trim; it's better to explain the process in simple, everyday language. The goal is understanding.

We typically start with the plans, taking our clients on a guided tour of the project. We "walk" them through each room, reviewing details, elevations and sections, and making final material choices (many jobs are delayed simply because the clients can't make up their minds). It's tedious and time-consuming, but it can head off many potential problems.

This is also a good time to review the clients' expectations. Few people seem to understand that there are different levels of craftsmanship, that painted wood trim doesn't demand as much care or time as stained architectural millwork. We use photos of our previous work, drawings, magazine photos and actual mock- ups (of trim or hardware, for instance) to show how things will look.

Clarifying expectations at the beginning will help minimize midstream design changes. Doing so is crucial, because even simple changes can have a profound effect on job completion. Changes not only raise costs; they can also lower quality. We've found that we get the best quality on the jobs with the fewest changes.

Tradespeople take pride in their work when they do it right the first time. When a client demands that something be taken apart and built differently, job morale can head downhill, dragging craftsmanship with it. We discourage change orders by charging aggressively for them, and by making it clear that the client must compensate us for overhead if excessive changes make the job run over schedule.

Finally, it's a good idea to spend time reviewing the job schedule with clients. Clarify which items, if any, they'll have to coordinate, and include these in the schedule. Permits and surveys are often handled by clients, as are utility fees and deposits. Beware of the client who lacks a sense of urgency. Set dead-lines together and strive to meet them.

The next step is to hold a final meeting with subcontractors. Again, review the job schedule and ask for delivery information on materials. We note this information in a project control log. This is simply a document that contains information on materials, such as what was ordered, when, and from whom. It's kept with the job schedule. The preconstruction meeting with the subcontractors is a good time to review policies on billing, change orders, punch-list items and payments. We require all subs who work with us to attend this meeting.

Defining and maintaining quality—A big part of getting finished is reducing repairs. This requires an ongoing quality control effort.

Each day our superintendents walk the job like detectives, checking and rechecking the work. We also try to anticipate problems before they occur. Will that outlet be in the way of the backsplash? Are the doors undercut properly and sealed to prevent warping? We pay particular attention to details, such as roof flashing, foundation waterproofing and drainage, backfill and compaction, that can cause big problems later on if not done right.

Before hiring new subcontractors, make sure that they meet your standards. Check their references, ask their suppliers if they pay their bills, and try to determine if they're eager to do a quality job. Remember, you are ultimately responsible for their work. Enforcing high standards early will improve the overall quality of the project and reduce repair and warranty problems.

Packaging the results—Finishing a construction project means tying up a lot of loose ends. To help with this process, we've developed a job closeout checklist (chart below). We also assemble all maintenance information, equipment warranties, guarantees and installation information. We package these and other important documents—including the names, addresses and phone numbers of all subcontractors used on the job—in a three- ring binder. During the final walk-through, we turn the binder over to the client, along with the rolled-up construction drawings. Our clients are impressed by such attention to detail and are much less likely to call us later with minor questions.

Tying up loose ends. 

A closeout checklist can make the end of a job much smoother. Note the amount of documentation delivered to the owner. 

This includes information on cleaning and maintaining appliances and materials.

ITEM DATE

Preliminary punch list 

Request to subs for owner documents 

Request to subs for final invoice 

Final inspections Certificate of Occupancy 

Documentation to owner

  Equipment warranties  

  Subcontractor list

  As-built drawings

  Outstanding change orders 

  Keys 

  Certificate of Occupancy Final release

Punch-list sign-off 

Subcontractor change orders 

Store job records 

Materials Equipment transfers 

Sub final release and lien waiver 

Job closeout report

Controlling the punch list—After the final walkthrough, there's still one hurdle: the punch list. This is a list of problems that must be corrected before the job is considered complete. Paint touch-up, hardware adjustments and final cleanup are standard punch-list items. It sounds simple enough, but a poorly managed punch list can turn into a builder's nightmare.

Part of the problem is human nature. Once subcontractors leave a job, they feel that their work is complete. Bringing them back to make repairs can be difficult, particularly if they did their work early in the project. To overcome this resistance, discuss the punch list with subs during the preconstruction meeting. Make it clear that they have a set period of time after receiving the punch list to make their corrections (two weeks works well for us), and that if they're unable to do so you'll hire someone else—and charge them accordingly.

Clients can also be a problem. Some clients see the punch list as their last chance to make changes or remedy design problems. For this reason, you'll need to set some standards early. Ask the clients to be specific about punch-list items, and keep changes separate. Don't allow general notes like "touch up paint as re-quired." Fixing something "as required" can take days, weeks, even years.

The gist of all this is that you need to control the punch list, rather than letting it control you. On most jobs, the client and architect assemble the punch list, then hand it over to the contractor. But we always insist on participating in the process. Many punch-list items are misunderstandings that can be easily resolved. For instance, one client complained that a wall had been built in the wrong place. We explained that we had to move the wall to clear a heating duct leading to the second floor. The problem never made it to the punch list. And because most punch-list problems are simply a matter of paint touch-up, cleaning or final adjustment, we try to include in the walk-through a painter, cleaner and carpenter in the punch-list party. This lets us solve many problems on the spot.

It's important that the punch list be written down and that it be understood by everyone. When the punch list is complete, a copy of it should go to each of your subcontractors. On larger jobs, we use stick-on circles, like the ones used in grocery stores, to show exactly where the punch-list items are. The circles help direct each trade to the problems they need to deal with.

A former boss of mine once said that the trick to finishing is to be both cop and psychologist—in short, to do anything necessary to get the job done. You may step on some toes in the process, but you'll have happier clients, a thicker wallet and fewer nightmares.